Frequently Asked Questions...
A good overview about the history of model horse collecting can be found here:
This is very much a personal decision. There are so many types of models available, that few, if anybody could collect everything. Collect what you like, it can be your favourite breeds or certain colours. There are no rules!
No - everybody, whatever age, can get involved and have fun. There are collectors of every age within the hobby, from 6 to 60+
Check out the BECF links page for some Companies and Artists that sell model horses, but you can find models just about anywhere, from the local toy shops to an internet company. They've even been found in charity shops and carboot sales!
Yes. There are many, many clubs all over the world! See the links page for a list of clubs, magazines and groups from around the world!
Most Clubs and Magazines advertise shows, some advertise them on some of the various online groups and forums. It's probably best to subscribe to a couple of clubs or groups.
Just about anything ... many magazines advertise shows run by smaller clubs set up for specific types, makes, breeds or colours.
No - unless you are a wizz at making model tack! It is normally best to show your models without headgear as badly fitting or poorly made tack could cost you a place or two!
Yes. All Ridden and Performance entries shown within the UK must have riders/handlers (rules differ in other countries). Some shows and classes allow set-ups without riders, but check with the show holder if it's not clear in the rules for that show.
Your models will either be LSQ "Live Show Quality" or PSQ "Photo Show Quality" - but this depends on their overall condition:
LSQ models are those that are in perfect (or near perfect) condition - no rubs, scratches or breaks etc, as models that are rubbed, scratched or broken will most likely not be placed at a live show.
PSQ models have mostly minor 'problems' such as rubs or minor scratches, but are good enough to show in photo shows, were these minor faults can be 'hidden' and not as easily seen.
But models that are badly damaged or scratched will not show very well. Either keep these models on your shelves or why not have a go at customising them!!
1- Check to see if the break is a clean one. If there's any chips, make note of where, so they don't interfere with lining up the pieces.
2- Take a marker pen or paint and dab some on the centre of the part of the leg still attached to the body, then put the broken part back in place so the dot transfers ( shows the middle on both ends)
3- After you double check the lineup and the dot, get out your Dremel (any hobby drill will work) and either you hold the horse and a friend/parent hold the drill or vice versa. It really does require two people because it's a delicate operation.
4- Drill body half first, carefully and slowly!. Be sure to hold the horse steady so the drill goes straight down the leg so as to avoid splintering the plastic. You only drill slightly less than HALF of the length of the pin you use (Use finishing nails, with the heads cut off or a length of coat hanger wire).
5- Insert the pin, and check to see it will line up with the bottom half of the leg. If so, lightly tap it in place. Make sure to drill deep enough the second time (bottom half of leg) to insert the pin all the way. A little bit extra is fine, glue will hold it in place.
6- Make sure everything lines up (if not, redrilling is tough but then you can use filler to hold the pin in place). Then grab your glue - use either a good 'super glue' or better still a two-part resin aproxy glue - be sure to follow the instructions on the packet.
7- Spread a thin layer of glue on the top half around the pin. Then put a small dot in the bottom hold and quickly put the leg on the pin and line it up as quickly as you can. This stuff can dry quick and there's no time to jiggle before it sets.
8- Let it dry without putting weight on the leg (some legs have an angle that would push or bend the break site) and then check for chips or paint rubs.
9- If there's paint rubs use a tiny detail brush, and mix the paint to match. Water it down to avoid brushstrokes. Let the paint dry and make sure it matches (acrylic dries darker). Your horse is done!